Category: Destinations

Discover Port Townsend

The beautiful seaport city of Port Townsend should be on everyone’s travel bucket list.

Are you looking for a destination that ticks all the boxes for a great vacation or weekend getaway? We get to experience a lot of small towns but this town is certainly one of our favorites. And others agree. Port Townsend is named one of the most beautiful small towns to visit by several publications, including Travel & Leisure and National Geographic. Put Discover Port Townsend at the top of your list. Clubbing may be best explored in Seattle but if you are ready for history and nostalgia, romance and dining, boating or outdoor adventures, then you should look at Discover Port Townsend.

Water Street viewed from Bell Tower Park

Port Townsend is a boom-town that never boomed. And that is why the stunning Victorian-era architecture has been preserved for you to enjoy. A visit here is to experience what an 1800’s seaport may have been like. Temperatures hover in the 70s during summer months so exploring by foot or bike is easy and pleasant. And if you don’t have your own bikes, they can be rented at Recyclery or PT Cyclery

Getting here.

By car, you head to the Olympic Peninsula, traveling North on scenic Highway 101. The more scenic route is from Olympia to highway 101 and through Hoodsport. Don’t stop — even though you will be tempted — or you will not get to Port Townsend. This drive is one of the most beautiful stretches of this famed highway. I highly recommend this route if you have the time. Mists roiling down from the Olympic Forest mountains. Vast views of Hood Canal (an underwhelming name for such a picturesque place), and narrow, historic bridges spanning bay sloughs. This road, on a warm summer day, is what convertibles are made for. You can also come through Tacoma and connect to Highway 101. Though faster, the drive is not quite as scenic.

No car? No worries. The Washington State Ferry System can get you here from several points on the mainland or from Seattle. You can bring bicycles and motorcycles, cars and RVs, on the ferry but make sure you have reservations well in advance of your trip. The Ferry fills up fast and traveling standby can quickly become disappointing. The ferry to Port Townsend is from Coupeville on Whidbey Island. The scenic ride is about one hour, so you have time to climb up top of the boat to enjoy the view.

Boating is hugely popular (understatement) at Port Townsend and marina facilities are available if you arrive by private boat at Point Hudson Marina and RV Park.

Where to Stay

Camping

Bring your own camp gear or RV and you have at least four different options.

  • There is a campground at Fort Worden Historic State Park. Ft. Worden has beachfront and wooded campsites and can be booked online.
  • Point Hudson Marina and RV Park is another choice for your RV. This park is in the heart of town and has sites directly on the water.
  • Jefferson County Fair Campground is a simple, inexpensive town option. It is an open field near Glass Beach, has some hookups and is within bike riding distance of downtown. These sites are first come first serve with a few full hookups.
  • The fourth option for camping is Fort Townsend Historical State Park. It is a few miles outside of town. This is an excellent option for easy access to wooded hike trails. There are only a few RV sites but loads of tent camping sites. These can be booked online.
Hotels

Hotels for every price range and type are in Port Townsend. Modern, historic, rustic, boutique, romantic are all available. Listed below are a few that we have seen but not stayed in. Be aware that some of the old buildings have stairs and no lift.

What to do

You may have a fabulous view from your hotel room but there is so much to pick from in Port Townsend that you probably want to explore some too.

What will catch your attention first is Water Street. As the port of entry for Puget Sound in the late 1800s, it is easy to imagine the scene. Sailors and businessmen, brothels and taverns, all teeming with activity. History claims Port Townsend was an easy place to be shanghaied. Today, a walk down Water Street is an enjoyable stroll filled with fabulous Victorian architecture. Buildings erected in anticipation of a railroad that never came, unique shops and eateries, pubs and inns.

Parks

Port Townsend is teeming with parks and open spaces. There is a park to enjoy the waterfront, a park to enjoy gardens, and walking trails crisscrossing the entire city. Surrounding the town are areas for hiking, biking, and birding. Here a few of our favorites.

Mt. Rainier viewed from Whidbey Island hike
Fort Worden Historical State Park

Difficult as it may be to leave Water Street, you would be remiss to skip Ft. Worden. Walking tour pamphlets are available at the Friends of Fort Worden Visitor Center. You will learn about the oldest building, Alexander’s Castle, built in 1883 and available for overnight stays. This building was used to film scenes in the movie An Officer and a Gentleman. You can dine in the Guard House Pub, or picnic on the parade grounds. Children (and grown husbands) will especially adore climbing on the concrete gun batteries that remain where placed over 100 years ago to protect Puget Sound.

Ft. Worden also is home to the photogenic Point Wilson lighthouse (no tours but great photos) as well as the Marine Science Center. Canoes are available to rent here.

Point Wilson Lighthouse
Chetzemoka Park

Chetzemoka Park is a labor of love and it shows. Established in 1904, Chetzemoka Park is the oldest city park in Port Townsend. Hedges of antique roses greet you as you enter to lush plantings of Rhodedendrons, mature trees, brick pathways and a stunning view of Admiralty Bay and the mist covered Cascade Mountain Range.

Potting Shed – Chetzemoka Park

Relax and enjoy the view in the wooden swings or bring a picnic and use a provided grill and table. There is plenty of room for children to run in this park and is easily accessed by foot or bike if you are staying in town.

A small dog park is available here.

Bell Tower Park

Make sure to visit the tiny Bell Tower Park, a seventy-five foot fire tower built in 1890. A brass bell in the top, still there, would signal where a fire was located. The view here is pretty impressive too.

Jefferson County Fairgrounds
Joey

If you are traveling with a pup and need room for them to run then this is where you want to head. Plenty of open space is available here to play fetch or let your pet stretch their legs.

Dining

Port Townsend is a tourist town and because of this boasts a wide assortment of restaurants to choose from. You won’t find much fast food so keep that in mind for a busy day. Here are a few that we have eaten in and would return to.

In addition to restaurants, there are brewery tours and cider tours. Spend a laid back day sampling their wares. Deli fast food is available at Safeway and the Organic Co-op.

So much more

There is so much more in Port Townsend than I can list. Better writers than me have sung the praises of this little city. Ken and I are so thankful that we stumbled into this lovely little place in our first year of RV life and have returned each year since. If I haven’t convinced you to Discover Port Townsend then let me give it one more try.

Balmy summer weather; lunch on a high deck overlooking Puget Sound; deer nibbling in lush grassy yards; a quiet hike along the shore; a wooden boat festival; market-day with delicious homemade treats; sailboat tours; visiting a fragrant lavender field; fresh seafood; picturesque marina; driftwood covered beaches; wild blackberries to pick; unique and interesting shops; over 300 Victorian homes; a quiet shore-side coffee; a secluded picnic; Glass Beach; a steampunk festival; a romantic dinner.

Want to learn more about traveling the Olympic Peninsula? Read our previous blog post, RV the Olympic Peninsula.

Till next week…….

Always Grateful👫

Tips and links

Before booking a hotel stay, be aware the older buildings may only have stairs to the upper floors, so no elevators. Make sure someone will be able to help you with your luggage. Pets may ride on the ferry but must stay in your vehicle for the entire ride. If you have time to kill before the Coupeville ferry on Whidbey Island, there is a small restaurant within walking distance. And if you want a little casino action, there are two available, the Suquamish Casino in Poulsbo about an hour away, and 7 Cedars Casino in Sequim about thirty minutes away.

Thousand Trails Crescent Bar

Take a bite of the Apple Capital of the World

After spending time in stunning Big Sky and a few days in the western chic of Bozeman, Montana, we were excited to continue our travels to Thousand Trails Crescent Bar in Washington, one of our favorite states. The first year RVing we spent time in the wheat fields of eastern Washington at harvest time. The experience was uplifting. We felt thankful to the farmers for their hard work and grateful for our country’s bounty.

Barn "Thank you Farmers"
Washington barn
Large apple with "washington"

Camping near the Apple Capital of the World, Wenatchee, was our next stop. Just like the tourists who flock to Florida –oohing and ahhing over orange groves — I couldn’t wait to see big, beautiful apple orchards. To stand amid the fruit trees, see their bounty, and experience their grandeur. So what if someone was going to laugh at me.

West from the Rockies

Bozeman, MT to Crescent Bar, WA route

Motoring west from the beautiful Rocky Mountains on Highway 90, we anticipated our next destination. The road was in good repair. The mountain passes not too difficult for the Burrow’s Banks Power assist. Guessing the types of crops planted by the highway kept us entertained. Identification signs started appearing on the fences and proved how hilariously wrong we were.

Arriving at the road to Thousand Trails Crescent Bar you encounter a short, steep, three miles of twisty descent to the valley floor with an awesome view of the Columbia River. My foot was pressing the imaginary brake and we made it safely down. At check-in, the park appeared to be clean and tidy. I knew from photos there were river-view spaces and asked about any open ones. The ranger said he only had two spaces that were appropriate for our size and amperage. We took our map, unhooked Armadillo, and went to our assigned campsite.

Membership

Thousand Trails path to river
Thousand Trails path to Columbia River

The ranger’s idea of appropriate space is a small-site, backed up to the major road into the recreation area. There is no shade or noise barrier. This campsite was going to be our home for the next three weeks. The idea of listening to traffic noise for that amount of time sent me postal. The usual procedure at Thousand Trails campgrounds is to go and locate whatever spot you would like and return to the ranger and inform them. A drive through the park revealed many open and nicer campsites.

We returned to the check-in gate and discussed our placement with a different ranger who told us they needed those nicer spots for people with fifty-amp requirements. Excuse me? Thousand Trails membership entitles you to thirty-amp service. There is an additional nightly charge if you require fifty-amps. We offered to pay additional charges for a better campsite. But there is no additional charge at Thousand Trails Crescent Bar. I was angry at that revelation and went back to the Jeep. This needed to be Ken’s problem to negotiate.

Customer service

Columbia River at Crescent Bar
Janet photographs the Columbia River at Crescent Bar

Everyone who is a member of Thousand Trails has purchased a membership and pays roughly the same amount of dues. We informed the ranger of our unhappiness at being treated as second -class members because of our size and amperage requirements. She politely showed us a few alternative sites. Was it river-view? No. Shaded? No. Quieter? Yes.

Is this the wave of the future with Thousand Trails? There have been a lot of changes to the company recently. Reducing dues for RVs that use fewer resources should be included if this is the new procedure. I guess you have no chance of ever being situated at a river-view location in Thousand Trails Crescent Bar if your rig is only thirty-amp. Maybe you get lucky if no one with fifty-amp requires them. There were a few tent campsites located with a view.

The park

Thousand Trails Crescent Bar recreation room
Thousand Trails gazebo and recreation room overlooking the Columbia River

Thousand Trails Crescent Bar sits high above the Columbia River. The park commands stunning views for those lucky enough to have those campsites. The recreation building is situated on the bluff, as is a gazebo for watching picturesque sunsets.

However, high-temperatures prompted me to undertake a project for outside window covers, as a heat-wave smothered the northwest. We hope to share the project with our readers after a few more refinements to the covers.

We had no further problems during our stay at Thousand Trails Crescent Bar. Covid19 makes using park restroom/shower facilities risky so we don’t do that. Campsites appeared to have plenty of space for even the largest rigs with slide-outs or extra tents. ATT and Verizon cell service were both three bars.

We love Thousand Trails and will continue to sing their praises. Read why in our blog post Affordable RV Travel. See how you can receive a $100.00 discount to dip your toes into Thousand Trails membership by clicking our link in the Tips and Links section at the bottom of this page.

Things to do

Pathway through Grant County Recreation Area
Biking, walking, jogging path through the recreation area.
Joey the Labrador is swimming
Joey at play

The feature that keeps campers coming back again and again to Thousand Trails Crescent Bar is it’s proximity to the Grant County Recreation Area (See Tips and Links for additional camping info if you are not a Thousand Trails member). From the campground, you can access a shade dappled, wide, paved path that winds along the Columbia River for about three miles. Along the path are dog-friendly beaches for you and your pooch to enjoy a swim, mounds of blackberries to pick, a boat ramp, and golf course. Picnic tables invite you to spend the day on the clear waters of the river. Thousand Trails Crescent Bar also has parking for your boat or jet skis, so bring your toys along with you.

golf course
Golf course in the Grant County Recreation Area

Crescent Bar area has two small restaurants, an ice cream parlor and pizza joint near the RV park. There is also a small, well stocked camp store at the golf course clubhouse.

Bavaria in the Cascade Mountains

street view of Leavenworth, WA
Leavenworth, Washington
Janet with a face mask
This is how we roll

Need a change from playing in the Columbia River? Head up the road about a forty-five-minute ride to Leavenworth, Washington where you feel as if you have stepped into a Bavarian village. Shops and restaurants are plentiful in this delightful, pedestrian-friendly town nestled in the Cascade Mountains. In addition to the shops and restaurants, there is a city park that borders the Wenatchee River where you can walk or bike the shady paths, picnic, and swim. Several companies offer rental kayaks, paddleboards, or tubing down the river. Leavenworth Outdoor Center, RiverRiders, and Osprey Rafting Co. are among several local companies that rent equipment and transportation.

Apples, peaches, cherries and more

apples on the tree

Thousand Trails Crescent Bar is near Wenatchee, the self proclaimed Apple Capital of the World. The farmland is rich and irrigated by the mighty Columbia. There are apple orchards, peach orchards, vineyards and vegetable fields. It is truly a cornucopia. You would be wise to take advantage of what is fresh at the time of your visit. The peaches were abundant and sweet at the time of our visit. We enjoyed them daily in salads, as snacks, in smoothies and grilled. Enjoy wine? Then make time to visit the many local wineries for a tasting.

Candy in Cashmere

aplets & Cotlets apron

The Liberty Orchards Company has been in business since 1912 and produces Aplets and Cotlets. Aplets and Cotlets are apple and peach fruit gels with nuts and a sugar coating, similar to Turkish delights, or lokum. We have loved them for years and routinely buy them for holidays. The company offers a tour of their kitchen and packing room, which we did and enjoyed. We then purchased, in their ample gift shop, a few candies for the road.😋 Really. Only a few candies.

Crunch Pak sliced apple snacks, who many people are familiar with, are also produced in the town of Cashmere.

Supplies and stuff

Pybus market poster

The town of Wenatchee is about twenty-eight miles away and can provide just about anything you may need as far as supplies and groceries. They boast Costco, Walmart, Home Depot, Fred Meyer and Safeway, as well as a mall and various restaurants. The Pybus Public Market is permanent and pleasantly situated along the river. You can shop for fresh produce, handmade items, and satisfy your appetite at several of the restaurants available. We also would recommend a wonderful, small pub around the corner, called McGlinn’s Public House.

If you are interested in hiking, there are many trails to choose from near Thousand Trails Crescent Bar. Alltrails is an excellent phone app to see what is nearby wherever you may be camping.

Apple trees
Apple orchard near Crescent Bar

My biggest disappointment in the area……apple orchards. My expectations were of grand old trees covered in fruit. Reality is trees pruned so severely I actually felt sorry for them. They are pruned to a V shape, only two branches remaining and wired to metal frames. According to our research, this is how you make an apple tree produce more fruit. I will never look at an apple the same way again.

Until next week…We are

Always Grateful👫

Golfers will love this Crescent Bar facility. This county golf course is just a short stroll or cart ride away, with views of the Columbia River. Others courses are available nearby.

Crescent Bar gets to extremely high temperatures. It is dry. Visit during spring or fall weather unless you are bringing your boat and will spending the days in the cool waters of the Columbia. Your pup will love it here because all the water access points through the recreation area are dog-friendly.

Moab, Utah

4×4 Playground and more

Where Jeeps Go to Play

Armadillo parked at the entrance to Arches National Park in Moab, Utah

I had heard of Moab, Utah but never was it at the top of my list of places to visit. Anyone who drives a Jeep, though, knows that Moab is where Jeeps go to play. But Ken and I are Florida babies and enjoy trees, water, and woods that deserts do not have in abundance. Still, when our route to Yellowstone put Moab, Utah in our path, we had to stop.

First, Moab is the town that Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Parks is near. People say Moab to refer to the area but there is no Moab National Park. Unless you are camping on BLM land or in one of the national parks, you will be camping in the town.

Moab is Looking Promising

Map of route from Delores Colorado to Moab, Utah

We arrived from southern Colorado via US Route 191. This is an easy route that at one time in our country’s history was a spur on a major highway (Route 91) from California to Canada. We started seeing fantastical rock formations along the highway. There are stripped turbans that look like Russian onion domes. Minarets standing alone in open fields. Sweeping arches and windows carved into the sides of mountains. Moab, Utah was starting to look a little more interesting.

Russion onion dome shaped rock on route to Moab, Utah

It is hard to make a pleasant RV park in the desert, but Moab Rim Campark manages a fairly nice landing spot. Town is an eclectic mix of restaurants and shops, breweries and tour operators. The town is historic, inviting, and walk-able. Imagine a western desert town where everything, including the buildings, seems to be red dirt. This is Moab.

Arches National Park is a short five miles down the road from town, So after setting up the RV, Ken and I jumped in Armadillo, our Jeep Wrangler, for a sunset ride through Arches. It is a real treat when you are close enough to enjoy sunrise or sunset in a national park.

Our Sunset Ride

The entrance to Arches is quite dramatic. You climb the mountain face on a switchback road. (Road is on the mountain behind Jeep in the first blog picture.) Everyone ahead and behind you is visible because it is solid rock. There are no trees. The cars look like ants going to and fro from their nest. I made the mistake of looking down the mountain, swallowed hard, and faced forward from then on.

Entrance to Park Avenue hike Arches National Park in Moab, Utah
Park Avenue, Arches National Park

It didn’t take long before we were greeted with the first spectacular view, Park Avenue. Park Avenue is a one-mile trail through a canyon that towers with some of the parks most well known monoliths. The Courthouse Towers, the Three Gossips, the Tower of Babel, all famously photographed, can be viewed on this trail as well as some outstanding fins (thin-walls of rock).

example of fin rock formations, Arches National Park in Moab, Utah
Rock formations called fins

It is always amazing to me that each park we visit, while similar, is so different. The colors, the formations, the stunning views. Just when you think it will be repetitive, you are surprised and awed yet again. Does everyone’s heart swell when they see these beautiful sights? Ken and I continue to be delighted over and over.

Sunset at Parade of Elephants, Arches National Park, in Moab, Utah
Parade of Elephants – The Windows Section, Arches National Park

Rafting, Hiking and Picnics

Whitewater rafting Colorado River, Moab , Utah
Whitewater rafting on the Colorado River – Break time

Our stay in Moab is filled with hikes to the famous arches, nature’s frames to stunning landscapes. Some are visible from a car pullout but others may require a short hike. Still others require a strenuous hike. They are worth every step it takes to view them. There are over two thousand documented arches in the park. Some are large. Some are small. But each is perfect.

We enjoyed a tame whitewater rafting trip on the Colorado River with an evening picnic under starry skies. We hiked Canyonlands National Park and the scenery is just as jaw-dropping as Arches.

Canyonlands National Park in Moab, Utah
Pine Tree arch, Arches National Park in Moab, Utah
Pine Tree Arch

Moab, Utah is famous for its Jeep safaris, off-road courses, whitewater rafting, dinosaur tracks and the stunning arches and canyons. It is a destination that I’m glad we didn’t miss. I do wish we had planned a little more time.

Continuing Precautions

Covid precautions continue to play a large part in the decisions we make. From activities we do, to what time we do them, and where we camp, Covid is forefront on our minds. We continue to see what we can see and do what we can do to the best of our abilities. Traveling in the RV taught me very quickly that we will never see it all and we are too old to do it all. But there is plenty still to experience and we try to pack in as much as our short time on this beautiful earth will allow.

Resting after hike in Canyonlands National Park, Moab Utah

Till next week. We are…

Always Grateful. 👫

Tips and Links

Moab is hot. If you cannot tolerate the heat then be sure to visit during the shoulder season, March through May or September through October. There are plenty of hotels in the town and several RV parks. All services from groceries to restaurants are available and there is a good organic co-op. A dinosaur land is near the entrance to Canyonlands and would be perfect for young ones. If you are comfortable driving the twists and turns at night, a night of stargazing should be on your list to do. There are dozens of tour operators for anything you may want to try and most operators have an easy level for older, younger or beginners.

Grand Teton National Park

It’s our first day to visit Grand Teton National Park and we are as excited as kids on Christmas morning.

🎶 It’s o’dark thirty when the alarm rings. Ken’s rings to the right of the bed and mine to the left where we are snug and warm. I crack my eyes open first, give him an elbow to the ribs and say “let’s get this show on the road.” It’s our first day to visit Grand Teton National Park and we are as excited as kids on Christmas morning.

Load up

Armadillo on the way to Schwabacher’s Landing hike

The plan for today is a sunrise hike on the Snake River at Schwabacher’s Landing. The promise, from reviews, is the hike will provide stunning scenery and photos to treasure. It is cold. The temperature is 39 degrees. We shiver while loading Armadillo with hot coffee, water, protein bars, and backpacks.

The thought crosses my mind “Is it worth all this?” But the commitment is made and off we go, as Ken drives through the Teton Pass with it’s twists, turns and ten percent grades. Kaye sleeps and I nod in the back of Armadillo while we stay warm under the blanket Kaye thoughtfully provided.

Are we awake yet?

Twilight appears to silhouette the town when we arrive in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. It looks like a fun place to explore but we push on, trying to reach the river before the sun peeks up over the mountains. Up, up the Jeep climbs, surrounded by the snowy peaks of Teton, Moran and Table mountains.

We keep our eyes open for wildlife as Armadillo rolls past the National Elk Refuge and are rewarded for our attentiveness. Five stately elk stand near the road. Two bucks hold enormous racks high on strong necks and appear like bronze statues. Zoom. We pass by too fast for a photo. Our memories will have to suffice.

Go time

We arrive at the parking area of the Schwabacher hike with little time to spare. The sun is moving up quickly and the parking lot is full. Full to overflowing. There is a collective groan in the Jeep.

Hurriedly everyone dons packs, grabs their poles and sets off. The river is crowded with early birds just like us. They too are there to capture, in photographs, some of the most beautiful scenery on earth.

We hike in, quickly snap some pictures and keep going. The trail follows a meandering creek. My hands are cold. My nose is cold. I keep hoping that walking a little more vigorously will make it better and it does. Eventually.

The reason we came

Soon the other photographers disappeared and then quiet and beauty surrounded us. Alone. Ken related that a review of this particular hike says not to bother going further than the first quarter mile. Nothing else is spectacular after that point. Au contraire. Nothing could be further from the truth but thank goodness others believed it.

It is the first foray into Grand Teton National Park for Ken and I. We hike quietly while soaking in the grandeur. I am reminded of early morning hunting trips with my Dad. Reminded of the peace and serenity a walk through the woods at sunrise brings to my soul.

Always grateful

These times remind me of how grateful I am to be here and experience this wonderful world. We hiked along the creek to its conclusion at the main river course then returned on our same route. The entire hike was filled with beautiful wildflowers spread across meadows and the towering snow-topped Tetons reflected in the mountain streams.

Upon our return, Ken and I along with Kaye and Tim, piled into the warm Jeep. The mood was happily exhausted in the car as we said goodbye and drove out of the park. A hearty breakfast on The Bunnery patio in Jackson Hole hit the spot after our early morning adventure.

Jackson Hole, Wyoming

RV life

Would I get up again at o’dark thirty for a sunrise hike? You betcha. I would and we did again the next day. Some things are worth the effort you have to put in.

Our RV life isn’t always easy either. We put in a lot of work to be here. It wasn’t easy to dispose of a lifetime collection of possessions or to know that we would not be near our first grand-baby. But. We. Are. And grateful.

We all get to choose our life and how it will play out. Fill yours with all the things that feed your soul.

Always grateful👫

Tips And Links

We choose to stay about an hour and a half away in Swan Valley because the prices were exorbitant in Jackson Hole. This was part of the necessity for getting up so early. There is a visitor center in Jackson Hole so plan to stop there for all your information before entering the park. If you do choose to stay closer, be aware that the Teton Pass has ten percent grades for quite a few miles, is very twisty and is not recommended for RVs. The best approach would be through Alpine to Jackson Hole. Also, there are acres and acres of free and gorgeous BLM lands that are available for camping along the Palisades Reservoir that runs through Swan Valley. The Schwabacher Landing hike is suitable for any age or ability but is not ADA accessible, however, stunning views are visible with little effort even from the parking area.

Covid and Summer RV Travel

Shelter in place is over but how do we move around the country safely? How to navigate covid and summer RV travel.

Quarantine at Thousand Trails Medina Lake has been pleasant. We have enjoyed the wildlife, trails, and atmosphere. Temperatures are rising lately and people are becoming frustrated with distancing rules. Face masks are second thoughts if at all.

Deer at Thousand Trails Medina Lake
Deer at rest in Thousand Trails Medina Lake

Get Ready for covid and summer RV Travel

It’s time for a change. Time to get rolling and start living our traveling lifestyle again. We started talking about leaving quarantine safety and realized traveling using our typical routine was not going to work. The four of us, traveling as a tribe in two RVs, put our heads together and came up with a safe traveling plan. Here are our tips for a safer Covid and Summer RV Travel.

Plan your destinations

We love dining out, visiting historical buildings, museums, and enjoying all types of city attractions. This year, we are avoiding indoor activities and focusing on hiking and canoeing. With that in mind, we looked closely at the available outdoor activities in the areas that interested us. We needed answers for these and other questions.

Armadillo with canoe summer and covid RV travel
Armadillo ready for new adventures
  • Are the state parks open for visiting?  Camping?
  • What is open to do in the National Parks in these area?
  • What about Bureau of Land Management (BLM) areas and State forests?
  • Are dump stations open?

Many answers can be found on the state websites with jurisdiction for that park. A great starting point is Wikipedia. The Wikipedia site provides information on State Parks in each individual state. It includes an interactive map and is a good first stop in your planning research. State Park List

For National Parks and Monuments, the National Parks System provides you options by State. Choose a state from a drop down list. A list of all National Parks and Monuments for that state will open. Some National Parks even have apps available for download to your smartphone. National Parks & Monuments

To learn about the many varied activities available on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land, the Bureau provides listings by state. Bureau of Land Management

If your decision is to be a little bolder, you may want to try restaurants, bars and other more crowded venues. A quick call will verify the business is open and ready to serve you; most restaurants are now offering curbside pickup, delivery, and dine-in. We are trying to find restaurants with outdoor patios.

Plan Your Route

RV Trip Wizard planning software for safely navigating covid and summer RV travel
Planning the first leg of our journey

After the destination has been decided, it is time to plan your route. This year takes a little more consideration. Here are a few examples of the type of questions you may want to ask.

  • Are quarantine rules in place for arrival from a different state?
  • Will restaurants and non-essential services be open?
  • Is the RV park you would like to go to taking new reservations?

This link will tell you how each state is currently handling the Covid19 pandemic and what services are partially or fully open. Covid19 Guidelines by State

After determining state guidelines, you can decide to stay or not. Please be sure to follow each state’s safety guidelines – or yours if they are more stringent.

Plan your expected activities

Some people enjoy sitting by the campfire or stargazing. Some enjoy dining out at new places. Other people love a strenuous hike or bike ride. Whatever comes to mind as perfect camping for you, make sure, through research, you will be able to do it and what special requirements you need to follow.

By making advance arrangements, we were able to enjoy a lovely dinner of Tafel Spitz prepared by chef/owner Denise at our favorite restaurant, Little Gretel in Boerne, Texas. It was a wonderful evening with great food, great friends, and in a lovely outdoor patio setting. If you are in the Austin/San Antonio area, be certain not to miss this restaurant.

An enjoyable evening with special dinner at Little Gretel

Plan and make your reservations

We are living in different times. Ken and I don’t usually bother with reservations. Now, reservations and confirmations are necessary for each leg of your journey. Here are a few tips.

  • Call the campground to make your reservation.  You can ask if there are any special operating procedures and what amenities may be open or closed.  Some campgrounds are using a remote check-in process similar to a late arrival check-in.
  • Note whom you speak with and get a confirmation number.  Get a backup email confirmation.
  • Keep copies of all pertinent information and payments regarding your reservation.
  • Pay as little down for a deposit as you can. Stay flexible.

ReserveAmerica is the booking agent for most state parks. Be careful. A closed park does not mean an automatic refund from the park, or their agent.

Plan for your safety

covid and summer RV travel shopping safety gear
Costco shopping in my safety gear
  • Follow all safety measures designated by the state you are in. It is your responsibility to know.
  • Stick to your own devised safety procedures. It is easy to get tired or complacent and let down your guard. Don’t do it.
  • Review your insurance policies and be aware of their requirements should you need medical attention.
  • Review all state Covid19 statistics. The numbers can be used as a guideline for determining where a little extra caution may be necessary.

Here is a link to find current statistics. State Covid19 statistics

My portable washing machine is coming in handy. It keeps me out of small cramped laundry rooms and saves considerable money. Read about this rugged little machine in The Laundry Experiement .

Covid and Summer RV Travel

Let’s get rolling. Ken and I are anxious and excited to start our Covid and Summer RV Travel. There are new states and parks planned and, our long-time friends, Kaye and Tim are traveling with us again. The lineup is full of great new adventures. Don’t be discouraged about what you cannot do. Be inspired by what you can.

We hope you stay safe in your summer travels too.

Always Grateful.👫

RV the Olympic Peninsula

The peninsula’s beauty is protected and available for you to explore. Some folks may not appreciate the remoteness but others will revel in what this area has to offer.

Getting to the Olympic Peninsula

This is the second summer we have explored the Oregon and Washington coastlines.  This year we were able to dig a little deeper and RV the Olympic Peninsula, an often overlooked gem.

Bordered by Puget Sound on the east, the Salish Sea on the north, and the Pacific Ocean on the west, the Olympic Peninsula is almost entirely covered by Olympic National Park and the National Forest.  The peninsula’s beauty is protected and available for you to explore.  Some folks may not appreciate the remoteness but others will revel in what this area has to offer.

The primary RV route to the Olympic Peninsula is by scenic highway 101, from either Olympia to the east or the Pacific coast to the west.  However, you can also enter by highway 16 from Tacoma , or ferry your RV in from northern mainland Washington.

The map pictured contains a link to all the areas that are dog friendly. For more information, click the description at the bottom.

route 101 and dog friendly areas in the Olympic Peninsula

Quaint small towns line the shores of Puget sound. Lavender fields scent the northeast breezes. And Ken’s favorite, oyster farms cultivate their bounty in the clean waters of Willapa Bay.  The drive into the peninsula is scenic and beautiful so allow yourself plenty of oooh and ahhh time.

Camping on the Olympic Peninsula Port Townsend

❤️️Honor system veggie stand near Jefferson County Fair campground in Port Townsend

We began our month in the Olympic Peninsula with a move up coastal highway 101 from Long Beach, Washington to the town of Port Townsend, where we met up with longtime friends from Texas, Kaye and Tim.

Located on the northeastern tip of the peninsula, Port Townsend boasts a historic waterfront with fabulous turn of the century architecture. The town is a ferry stop for the Washington ferry system bringing tourists to Port Townsend’s historic downtown and Fort Worden Historical State Park.

What to do in Port Townsend, Washington

Point Wilson lighthouse at Fort Worden

 You can enjoy great restaurants. Stroll or bike through beautiful scenery where deer wander freely through town. Or tour the outer islands like Bainbridge or the San Juan Islands. Take a whale watching tour. You can even take your bike and catch a ferry to Victoria, B.C. for a day trip. 

Water-views from Port Townsend & Fort Worden

There are ample RV sites in one of four locations around the town.  We prefer the quiet of Jefferson County Fair Campground, but waterfront camping and fabulous views are also available at Fort Worden State Park, Point Hudson Marina and RV Park, and Fort Townsend Historical State Park.

Deer grazing at Fort Worden post cemetary

Lift a pint on the deck of Siren’s Pub & Restaurant and enjoy the scenic waterfront. Or visit one of our favorite Thai food experiences in all our traveling at Khu Larb Thai or their Little Rose Takeout.  Good dining choices are available throughout the town.  Port Townsend also boasts an extremely satisfying Jefferson County Farmers Market on Saturdays.  They offer all manner of fresh farm products, entertainment and food.  One other tidbit about this area, Port Townsend has one of the best organic food co-ops that we have found, The Food Co-op.

Port Townsend waterfront shops

Camping on the Olympic Peninsula Sequim

The next stop on our peninsula tour was Sequim (pronounced Sqwim).  We stayed at the Seven Cedars Casino where you are welcome for three days without charge and there are even some 15-amp electrical hookups available.

We stayed the three-day limit and enjoyed their hospitality, gaming and restaurants. It was long enough too to enjoy one of the local farms during lavender festival, Purple Haze Lavender Farm. 

What to do in Sequim, Washington

If you are considering a trip to the Olympic Peninsula, I would encourage you to time your visit with the Lavender Festival in July.  Blooming fields, live entertainment, lavender flavored everything from margaritas to ice cream and beautiful hand-crafted items.  And each farm offers something different.

Purple Haze Lavender Farm

Another memorable dining experience was the Alder Wood Bistro.  They have an eclectic menu, including pizza.   Of the six in our party, all six were happy with their dinner choices!  A few days later, Ken and I returned for my birthday celebration with another helping of their crispy duck and Shaker Lemon Pie.

Shaker lemon pie – Alder Wood Bistro

Sequim is a good location to position yourself for exploring if you do not want to continue into more remote locations.  There are RV parks available, beautiful scenery and plenty of restaurants.  Sequim is large enough to supply most of your needs.

Camping on the Olympic Peninsula Into the woods we go

As you continue west, there are several options for stays.  However, there is only one town with many supply choices and that is Port Angeles.  We kept moving west but noted there were fewer opportunities for gas or groceries beyond Sequim. 

If you require cellphone/wifi service, proceed with caution as it gets much more difficult to find hot zones.  Our attempt at the Salt Creek Recreation Area was a bust, and since everyone in our tribe required service, we had to say a sad bye, bye to this beautiful and peaceful campground.

We use Campendium to check on cell-service before we travel to a campground, and recommend it. But you can’t absolutely rely on the reviews to be accurate.

Camping on the Olympic Peninsula Sekiu

Our next stop was Sekiu and I’m almost tempted to keep this one to ourselves.  But since our readership is not in the thousands, we’ll share.

Eagle waiting for salmon scraps on Clallam Bay

You can’t go much further west than Sekiu, Washington on the Juan de Fuca Highway, almost to the peninsula’s northwestern most point.  Most of the RVers here have come for one thing.  Salmon.   The salmon swim up the strait to the smaller streams for spawning and the fisherman are there to catch them and fill the freezers they brought along.

Campsites & boat docks on Clallam Bay

Sekiu rests on the western edge of Clallam Bay.  It is a fish camp.  But it is one of our favorite RV stops in this region.  Peaceful and quiet with abundant wildlife, we could even see Vancouver Island across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.   It punches our happy ticket. 

What to do in Sekiu, Washington

Commercial fishing boat in Sekiu

There are several campgrounds available around the bay and most all the camp spaces back up to or overlook the water. We camped at Van Riper’s Resort with full hookups, waterfront sites and a small store. Salmon fishing guides can be hired here too. Verizon service was very good, but ATT was non-existent.

Janet & Kaye enjoying campsite lunch at Van Riper’s Resort

Our time in Sekiu was a wonderful respite and a good location to launch exploration of Olympic National Park.  But the remoteness and atmosphere at a fish camp may not be for everyone.  If it is for you and you decide to go, be aware that there are only a couple of restaurants nearby (one that was not so great) so you will need to bring food and supplies with you.  It is a good distance back into a town.  Wild blackberries abound throughout this region and there are plenty of places to go picking.  We enjoyed blackberry cobbler nightly, courtesy of Kaye.

What to see and do on the Olympic Peninsula

Cape Flattery

A visit to Cape Flattery will reward you with some of the most staggeringly beautiful scenery the continental United States has to offer. It is our northwest most point and is located on Makah tribal lands. Luckily they generously share this beauty with everyone. You arrive to a paved parking area and then hike to the point. It is a 1 1/2 mile round trip hike. Don’t pass this by if you visit the Olympic peninsula.

Restaurant stop on Makah tribal land
tribal cemetery totem

Olympic National Park

Wild lily in Olympic National Park

I’m embarrassed to say that we were enjoying our camping at Sekiu so much that we didn’t get into Olympic National Park as often as planned.  What we did see made us commit to coming back again.  Snow capped mountains (in July, shocking for us Floridians!), glaciers, marmots, and fields of wildflowers including beautiful wild lilies.   It is a precious and spectacular place. 

View from Hurricane Ridge hike
Janet & Ken at Olympic National Park Visitor Center

There are so many recreational activities that anyone can find something to do here.  There are hot springs, challenging mountain hikes, bike paths, and the Hoh Rainforest.  And if camping in State and National Parks is what you love, several are situated on stunning Pacific coastline

RV the Olympic Peninsula Conclusion

Several challenges exist if you are interested in visiting this area but all of them are easily overcome with a small amount of planning.  That would be our best piece of advice.  It is well worth your time to see Olympic National Park and to RV the Olympic Peninsula. Highway 101 is in good condition throughout.  This is not a place you can easily just “wing it”. A little preparation will go a long way toward a fun and memorable experience when you RV the Olympic Peninsula.

Thanks to our friends and travel companions for the summer, Kaye & Tim. It was great sharing it all with you. Always grateful.👫

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks

Christmas card photos come to life in the Land of Giants.

Previously posted to Facebook on 5/18/18

Our explorations into this big beautiful country keep getting better and better. Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks is our first impressions of this special place in the Sierra Nevadas.

A land of giants

Ken said it correctly in an earlier post, we are in the Land of Giants. Every steep hairpin curve upward in the High Sierra brings a new surprise. Spring flowers in vivid shades of purple, yellow, red and white cover the mountainside like colored carpets. Herds of deer glide silently by. Bear forage after waking from long winter sleep. Giant grey squirrels chatter. A Perrigrin falcon coasts through the sky. You are surrounded by multiple, massive, icy cold rivers cascading thunderously down onto rocky faces and through lush mountain meadows. The smell in the air is a perfume no chemist could ever duplicate; it is pine and flowers, fresh clean water and woods.

The clouds touch the mountaintops and dance along the brilliant blue sky, so close you want to reach for them. And under the giant sequoia and pines, where it is dark and shaded, Christmas card photos come to life.

If Yellowstone is the diamond, then Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks are the rubies and the emeralds. The Sequoias are Titans wrapped in soft, warm, bark robes, sometimes two-feet thick.

Uncrowded exploration

We have had dumb beginner’s luck and visited here just ahead of the season, with its masses of tourists parading from park-to-park on the weekends; so during the week, we have this playground virtually to ourselves. We hiked for miles and rarely saw anyone. We picnicked alone in splendor.

Mother nature puts on a fantastic show in the High Sierra. Snow is still on the mountaintops, melting and creating waterfalls everywhere you look. Trickling ones, roaring ones, gentle brooks that feed the meadows. And slow, wide, meandering ones. You think you have seen the best. But then turn the corner and your eyes pop because you encounter something even better. A mountain, a budding tree, blossoming flowers, or wildlife.

Get out and GO!

Many of you have mentioned to us that we are living your dream; to go around in an RV or travel trailer and see the country. Ken and I would both say DO IT! Do whatever you can and drag your children along too. Weekends in a van or months in an RV. Do it. You will not be disappointed. The world is big……

Always grateful. 👫

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks have been our favorite National Parks so far. I hope our photos do it some justice.

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Lava Beds National Monument

I’m not sure why we didn’t see Lava Beds National Monument when researching our route. The only defense is that you see so many forests and monuments on the map that if you stopped for them all, you would never make it to your destination.

North from Carson City

Our destination after Carson City, Nevada was Bend, Oregon with an overnight stopover in Tulelake, California.  We researched our route and decided on Interstate 395 then across to State Road 139 at Alturas, California.  The thinking was to stay east of the greatest elevation changes until the last possible minute and thereby save on gas.  Our route choice was a good one and we made the very happy discovery of Lava Beds National Monument along the way.

map route to Tulelake, California near Lava Beds National Monument

I’m not sure why we didn’t see this park when researching our route.  The only defense is that you see so many forests and monuments on the map that if you stopped for them all, you would never make it to your destination.

We cruised up the highway, enjoying the sight of snow blanketing the forest floors.  In the back of my mind, though, I kept wondering, did we move into the mountains too early in the season?   And hoped that the answer was…it’s fine.   We were nearing our overnight stop in Tulelake when the sign for Lava Beds National Monument appeared on the side of the road in what seemed the middle of nowhere.

The sign indicated that it was 16 miles to the park and, as we were ahead of schedule, floated the idea of heading there to look.  We decided to continue to our overnight stop and try to include a quick visit before we pulled out for Bend.

Tulelake, California
View from campground at Tulelake-Butte County Fairgrounds near Lava Beds National Monument
Tulelake campground

Tulelake-Butte Valley Fairgrounds is a Passport America Park.  If offers full hookup campsites in a lush, green, grassy area that is off to the side of fairground buildings and backed up to farm fields.  This is a self-pay park and can still be used if you are a late arrival.  Although there are not a lot of dining options nearby, it is a lovely and peaceful place to rest for a couple of days.  There was a Visitor Center on the fairground property, though we didn’t go in.  Happy with our camping site in Tulelake, we decided to stay two nights and see what was nearby.

Tulelake National Wildlife Refuge
White pelican floating on water at Tule Lake Wildlife Refuge near Lava Beds National Monument
White Pelican

Our first stop was the Tulelake National Wildlife Refuge.  After driving around on dirt dyke roads, through acres of sweet potato farm fields, we decided that this place would be what we call “an armadillo roll”, as in, roll on by.  We did see our first ever pheasants with their beautiful plumage and, funny to us as Floridians, white pelicans.  If you are into birds, then you may love this place.  Various, huge flocks were floating, flying, and fishing in the waters.

Lava Beds National Monument

We used the second half of our day to drive into Lava Beds National Monument.  Ken and I figured to just do a quick drive through look.  Wow!  We are sorry that we didn’t skip the wildlife refuge and just go straight to Lava Beds.

Acres of diverse volcanic features vie for your attention in the Great Basin High Desert.  Hikes, wildlife and battle sites also abound but the show doesn’t stop above ground.  Of over 700 caves in the park, twenty five of them are marked and open to exploration. 

Caves
Ken hiking out from Skull Cave at Lava Beds National Monument
Skull Cave entrance

The caves are graded from easy to difficult and are yours to explore on your own.  Yes.  That’s right.  These caves are open for you to explore completely on your own.  To make sure that you have all the equipment necessary, you must first stop at the visitor center and obtain a pass.  There the rangers will brief you on safety and equipment, you will be screened for white nose syndrome and helped with what caves may be suitable for you.  You will need;

  • A helmet (bike helmet will do)
  • Flashlight (can be borrowed from visitor center)
  • Suitable warm clothing/boots
  • Gloves
  • Water

There is something otherworldly about being in a cave all alone.  It really isn’t for the faint of heart but is something that I feel privileged to have done.  We went into Skull Cave where you descend, down and further down, about eighty feet, until you reach the ice floor at bottom.    And the temperature change is dramatic.  We were freezing down there. 

Janet at lava tube opening in Lava Beds National Monument
Lava tube opening

We hiked back to another cave for an attempted entry but felt that it was too steep for our capabilities.   Even though we couldn’t go in that cave, it was a beautiful hike, late in the afternoon.  We were treated to deer foraging for their evening meal and some beautiful sunset colors in the sky.

We will be back

This is one of the places that we are kicking ourselves for not knowing about and planning more time to spend exploring.  There is a small campground at the park.  Although beautifully situated It does not provide hookups and only has a couple of spots suitable for RV’s over twenty-five feet.  However, the Tulelake-Butte County Fairgrounds was nearby and has full hookups.

Tule Lake Monument

In addition, after we left the area, we found out that Tulelake, California was also the site of a Japanese American internment camp and prisoner of war site.  This site is now memorialized at the Tule Lake Monument. This monument would be of particular interest to our family because Ken is half Japanese.  The only way to tour the buildings at this site is with a Park Ranger and can be arranged at the Park Visitor Center located at Tulelake-Butte County Fairgrounds.  The very place we stayed.

Klamath Falls Lake & Crater Lake National Park
Joey in the mud at Tulelake-Butte County Fairgrounds
Joey finds a mud puddle at Tulelake-Butte County Fairgrounds

The proximity of Klamath Falls Lake and Crater Lake National Park (about 1 ½ hours), makes Tulelake a great basecamp for exploring an activity rich area.  I’m really sorry that we didn’t research our stopover more fully but very happy to have stumbled on it.  Lava Beds National Monument alone is worth the visit but everything else is icing on the travel cake.

Always Grateful👫

On Nevada highway 95 – Las Vegas to Carson City

Nevada Highway 95

We bid adieu to the Spring Mountains in Las Vegas and pointed The Burrow northward on Nevada highway 95 to the Comstock Load, Virginia City, Nevada.

Last year, we were delayed in Las Vegas while Ken recuperated from pneumonia, so the push was on to get to the Pacific Northwest a little earlier using a new route. Our RV, a Bigfoot, is habitable to 17 degrees-below-zero. But our snow driving experience is limited since we are Floridians.  Give us alligators no problem.  Four kinds of poisonous snakes, got it covered.  Five species of poisonous spiders and enough mosquitoes to carry you away, (shrug) it’s all good.  But snow?  Yikes! We crossed our fingers hoping we were not moving too soon.

The drive was a delightful surprise.  Highway 95 is good road through the desert, with little traffic and fewer towns to slow you down. The beautiful, snow-capped mountaintops of Yosemite towered on the horizon as we made our way north.  We stayed for the week at a quiet State Park in Dayton (just down the road from the famous Bunny Ranch) where we had easy access to Carson City (the state capitol), Virginia City (Comstock Load), Lake Tahoe and my favorite activity…Steamboat Hot Springs.

Carson City, Nevada

How many times have you heard about a town, or place, and it did not interest you to visit?  Since we started RV’ing, I feel like my mind has been blown.  The little towns and historic places in our country are amazing.  Seeing them is a privilege that I hope you have already experienced or will soon have the opportunity.

Nevada State Capitol building windows made of French crystal Nevada highway 95
Capitol Bldg. French Crystal Window
Nevada Supreme Court interactive audio display, Nevada highway 95

Carson City is of course, the capital of Nevada. So, our first stop was the capitol building tour.  Built in 1870, it is the second oldest capitol building west of the Mississippi and is adorned with beautiful architecture , a museum on the second floor in the old senate chambers, and an interactive display in the state supreme court room.  An interesting fact is the building was condemned but subsequently restored in 1979.  We meandered the Kit Carson Trail through downtown historic homes and businesses, while Ken reminisced about, as a young boy, reading Kit Carson adventure novels and how exciting it had all seemed.  We enjoyed a lovely spring day, and had a really, really, good lunch at Gather.

Passive activities like touring Carson City, are good but give us an adventure, give us something we love to do, or give us something we have never done before, and it’s a permanent memory.  One of my best memories was during a visit to Hot Springs, Arkansas.  To me, a nice long soak in a hot spring mineral bath is one of life’s greatest pleasures. I am excited to be heading into one the most active regions for hot spring activity that produces them (read, Volcanoes here).

Steamboat Hot Springs
Steamboat Hot Springs, Nevada logo on building front, Nevada highway 95

Steamboat Hot Springs was right in our path so it was my pick as a “must do”.  Established in 1857, the springs are piped into a building, listed on the historic register.  The menu includes all types of spa treatments, but we opted for a one-hour couples soak.  Being able to do this together is one thing I really liked about their menu at Steamboat.  In Arkansas, they segregated the baths and massages.

We arrived, eager for the experience and were asked if we would like to include aromatherapy, then shown to our private room.  The building is set up a lot like an old roadside motel.  Each bath is in a private room entered from an interior hallway and is decorated in a color theme designated by a stained-glass window.   You may choose you room color at reservation time, and we choose the blue room.  It included a shower, changing bench, towels, cool towels for your face, and a giant tub.  The tub had plenty of room for two people, I could practically swim in it. The attendant explained the faucet system, and then, left us alone.

Blue room bath at Steamboat Hot Springs, Nevada highway 95

“Heaven, I’m in heaven,

And my heart beats so that I can hardly speak

And I seem to find the happiness I seek

When we’re out together bathing, cheek to cheek.”

What a great experience we had.  If you get to this area, we highly recommend the hot springs experience. Check for a Groupon to see if you can snag it at a discount.  We found out — after we got there — you can bring your own bath essentials, like soaps, or bath salts, or snacks, or drinks.  Wow!  If only we had known. We could have bumped this experience up a notch.  Oh well.  Next time.

Virginia City, Nevada

Our next visit was to Virginia City, what could be considered the proverbial 1800’s mining town in every western film made and home to the first major discovery of silver in the US…The Comstock Load. It was easy to imagine the bawdy, bustling, booming town that made Virginia City famous.  Perched at six thousand feet high on Mt. Davidson, it commands stunning views and still retains the ambiance and charm of yesteryear.  Ken and I have been fortunate to tour other historical towns, but this one seems to resonate with the excitement and gaiety that was present in its heyday; almost as if the walls are imprinted with the past residents’ lives. 

Old oil lamp chandelier in Virginia City, Nevada highway 95
Chandelier in the Virginia City Tourism Bldg.
Step Back In Time

Walk down the board sidewalks, and the muddy streets, with horses tied and patiently waiting, while their owners entertained themselves with women, or drinks at one of the many saloons, comes to life.  You can picture the men made wealthy by silver and gold, dressed in their finest, attending a private club for supper with a beautiful woman on their arm or entering the bank for a meeting.  And in your mind, you see the trappers coming in from snowy mountains to socialize and sell their pelts.  This is where Mark Twain first began his writing career, publishing news stories in the Virginia City Territorial Enterprise, and where others, people notable in banking, mining, and politics got their start. Also, it’s the city that Bonanza’s brothers, Ben, Hoss, Adam and Lil’ Joe rode in to for supplies.

Bar back at Bucket of Blood Saloon in Virginia City, Nevada highway 95
Bucket of Blood Saloon

Virginia City was an interesting and pleasant visit to our past, preserved for our future.  We recommend a visit here but plan plenty of time. And make sure to have a drink in The Bucket of Blood Saloon, notable for the many bloody miners’ fights.

Ken and I were disappointed to miss Lake Tahoe as it was only about twenty miles away but I’m sure we will visit this area again.  Our travel style is a mix of unscheduled stops combined with more lengthy reservations so sometimes we just don’t get to linger in an area before it is time to move on.  You take the bad with the good.  Ken is better at moving on than me.

Travel Tips for Nevada Highway 95
Map Route of Nevada highway 95 to Carson City, Nevada

If you are wondering about traveling this leg of Nevada highway 95 with your RV, we were comfortable the entire way except for a few high wind areas.  Make sure you have a full tank of gas before leaving Amargosa Valley as gas stations are scarce along the way.  Also notable on this route, is the town of Hawthorne that houses the largest munitions depot in the country.  You can see the ordinance bunkers stretching for miles and miles through the desert. There is a free museum dedicated to all things munitions.  Lake Walker, just north of Hawthorne, is a nice spot to pull out for a quick lunch or an overnight. Oh…. And there is a sizable herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep inhabiting the area.  We saw them climbing rocks along the lakefront.   Fortunately, we didn’t run over any of them.  Not one.

Always grateful.👫

This is Las Vegas???

This is Las Vegas???
If you have been avoiding Las Vegas because “it’s not your thing”, maybe you should take another look.

If you have been with us on our journey from the beginning, you know our west coast base is in Las Vegas, Nevada.  It is an easy place to get reasonably priced flights any time of the year.  We have been here several times and, like most tourists, get mesmerized by all that is “The Strip.”  Those bright twinkly lights are amazing — but then, I am a sucker for Disney World too.  However, bright lights fade, and this past visit has really given us an insight into a plethora of activities that don’t involve lights and slot machines.

So… think Vegas isn’t your thing?  Read on and I’ll give you some options you might not be aware of.

Death Valley National Park
Sunset view of Dante's Peak at Death Valley National Park
Dante’s Peak

It is close.  Only about a two-hour car ride away, Death Valley makes a full, but fun, day trip.  At two hundred eighty-two feet below sea level, you can’t miss Badwater Basin.   It is the lowest point in North America, confirmed with a sign way up on the mountain wall indicating the point of sea level. 

You can walk on dunes and feel like you are in the Sahara Desert, have lunch in the historic Oasis Inn and view their art collection that includes Remington bronzes, drive through the aptly named Artist’s Drive and take in the beautiful colors displayed on the mountains.  At The Ranch at Death Valley, there is a free, outdoor museum with stage coaches, mule team wagons, and equipment used in borax mining. 

Make sure to stop at the visitor center and take a picture with the iconic temperature sign out front.  Finish your day at the stunning Dante’s Peak for a spectacular sunset.  It will cost twenty-five dollars to enter the National Park but your admission fee is good for seven days.  Bring lots of water along as there are few opportunities to buy it.   If aliens are your thing then make sure to take the highway 95 route to Death Valley and stop in Area 51 for “pictures with the Aliens.”  All manner of alien souvenirs is available here.

Lake Mead National Recreation Area

Lake Mead provides so many outdoor opportunities that you could spend a week here and not do it all.

Hoover Dam
Mike O'Callaghan-Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge view from Hoover Dam

Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge
Viewed from Hoover Dam

The most well-known attraction in the area is Hoover Dam and it’s only about thirty minutes away from Las Vegas.  I won’t bore you with facts about the dam as there are countless PBS specials about what it took to build this engineering marvel.  Even if you aren’t impressed by the engineering of Hoover Dam, there are still fabulous views, bronze sculptures, all sorts of Art Deco worthy of a monument to achievement.  It is free to visit Hoover Dam, however, there is a parking fee on the Nevada side, free parking on the Arizona side.  Tours are an additional cost.  You may want to check that wind speeds are not too high on the day you would like to visit as they can knock you around a bit.

The Lake
Paddle Wheel on Lake Mead
Lake Mead paddle wheeler

Lake Mead Cruises offers daytime sightseeing tours, weekend brunch tours, and evening dinner cruises on a paddle wheeler.  We chose to do a daytime cruise.  The cost was thirty dollars per person and there are sandwiches, burgers, snacks and drinks available for purchase onboard.  The cruise is narrated, takes about ninety minutes and they bring you as close to the dam as they can safely manage.  The dam is remarkable from any angle but from the water it is especially nice.  This tour is a great way to slow down and enjoy some relaxing sunshine and water.

Want to captain your own boat for the day and enjoy that beautiful blue lake?  Several businesses on the lake rent anything from personal watercraft to houseboats.  Check out Callville Bay Marina or Temple Bar Marina for more information and rates.

Colorado River

The Colorado River is what feeds the Lake Mead playground and the National Recreation area follows the river down to Laughlin, Nevada.  Below the dam is a popular spot for kayak tours.  No rapids are involved and there are opportunities to see wildlife, explore Emerald Cave and more.  A half day trip will cost about one hundred to one hundred-fifty dollars.  As the tour company will have to apply for a permit for each person booked, it is a good idea to try and arrange this one in advance.  Check here for rates and adventures:  Blazin Paddles; Evolution Expeditions; River Dogz.

If paddling a kayak isn’t your thing then there is still a way for you to get out on the river.  Black Canyon River Adventures will do all the work while they take you down the river on a large comfortable raft.  This trip includes lunch and a bus ride back to the origination point.

4×4 Trails

Do you drag around a Jeep behind your RV, never utilizing your four-wheel drive capabilities?  Want to give it a try?  Lake Mead National Recreation Area is a great place to “get your feet wet”.  There are approved back country roads that will give a four-wheel owner the opportunity to see what most others don’t get to.  Off roading is allowed on trails marked by a yellow arrow sign and black numbers on the arrow indicate the road number.  Detailed maps are available for download at nps.gov.

Hiking Trails
Janet and Joey pose at red rock hiking

Hiking trails abound in the recreation area and if you are a hiking enthusiast then you don’t need me to tell you how to go about it.  But…you don’t have to be an athlete to look around.  It is fascinating.  There is even a trail that follows the old railroad bed and you get to go through the tunnels.  Your puppy can go on these too.   Just remember to wear sturdy walking shoes and bring along plenty of water.  Go to nps.gov for more helpful tips about trails and hiking.

Desert Bighorn Sheep

Shy and camouflaged, desert bighorn sheep are hard critters to spot.  Hemenway Park in Boulder City will give you the best opportunity to spot one or a few.  Hemenway is a city park inside a neighborhood where the sheep roam around unmolested.  The park closes at dusk and is a nice additional stop when going to or from the Hoover Dam.

Old fashioned Car Tour

Hiking, biking, 4×4 and tours sound like to much for you?  Just get in your car and drive.  A beautiful scenic drive awaits you after you enter the Lake Mead National Recreation Area from the Lake Las Vegas entrance or Lake Mead Parkway. 

You will have to pay a twenty-five-dollar entrance fee per vehicle and your fee is good for seven days.  The drive will give you a little sample of three of the four desert ecosystems found in the United States.  This is where the Mojave Desert, the Great Basin Desert and the Sonoran Desert all meet.  It is about a fifty-mile drive from Lake Las Vegas, around the northern side of Lake Mead, opposite the Hoover Dam or southern side and there are ample opportunities to pull over and take a few stunning photos.  This is a great drive to combine with a visit to the Valley of Fire.

Camping
Callville Bay Campground view
Campsite View

Numerous campgrounds are available in the recreation area.  A couple have full-hookups available but most only provide a restroom, dump station, and potable water.  There are plenty of opportunities for remote boondocking if that is your preference.  Visit nps.gov for more camping information.

Valley of Fire State Park

The Valley of Fire is a unique area composed of Navaho Sandstone which gives the rock formations their brilliant red color.  They almost appear to glow or be “on fire” when the sun is high overhead.   Several movies have been filmed here, including Arnold’s Total Recall, due to the bizarre color and formation of the rocks.  Several short hikes to notable rock formations are available along with picnic locations and a small visitor center.  Ten dollars per vehicle is the entrance fee and is good for the entire day.  This is another place that it pays to bring along plenty of water.  We love this park combined with the Lake Mead drive.  It makes a wonderful day trip to explore the Nevada desert.  You can still enjoy this park if you don’t hike; there are plenty of stunning sights from your car window. 

Valley of Fire red rock formations

When you look at the map, there is a circular route from the National Recreation Area to Valley of Fire and out to Interstate 15, then back to downtown Las Vegas.  I wouldn’t recommend this route as your day will be finished with little scenery and interstate traffic.  Our recommendation would be to turn around go back the way you came.  The scenic drive will look different from the opposite direction.

There is a campground available in the Valley of Fire.

Spring Mountains National Recreation Area

The Spring Mountains are one of the most delightful finds we have made and is only about a forty-five-minute drive from downtown Las Vegas.  The Spring Mountains are part of the Sky Island ecosystem found in only a small region of the United States.  There are species and terrain unique to these mountains, rising almost twelve thousand feet from the Mojave Desert.  And there are trees, tons and tons of trees, which you might be desperate to see after a few days in the desert.   Several opportunities to enjoy the recreation area are available.

Lee Canyon
Lee Valley skiers coming down the slope

Lee Canyon is a ski and snowboard resort that is operated in partnership with the United States Forest Service.  During the winter season there is tubing, snowshoeing, snow play areas and ski/snowboard runs.  Lessons and rentals are available and there is a small café in the lodge.  Lift tickets are about seventy dollars and there is a five-dollar parking charge.  There are ample opportunities to play in snow or view the wildlife – such as wild horses — on the way up to the lodge.

Joey the Labrador sits in the snow
Joey

Summer activities include a scenic sky gondola ride and hiking. 

Be aware that, in winter, you may be required to have snow chains.  Also, an important note, you cannot use Uber or Lyft to get to Lee Canyon from Las Vegas.  There is little to no cell phone coverage so no way to call for a return.

Mt. Charleston

Another significant location within the Spring Mountain National Recreation Area is Mt. Charleston. Mt. Charleston houses the park visitor center, campground, a couple of small restaurants and lodging.  We enjoyed a pleasant lunch at the Mt. Charleston Lodge where the restaurant view is of the snow-covered mountains.  Also, they provide cabins that have the same scenic view.

Highway 158 connects Mt. Charleston and Lee Canyon and is a scenic ten-mile drive.  Various hikes and overlooks are available to stop at.  Watch for wild horses throughout the area as they seem to like walking down the middle of the highway.

Janet in snow for selfie at Lee Canyon, Las Vegas.
Janet and Ken in snow at Spring Mountains
Janet and ken in snow at Spring Mountains
So, this is Las Vegas

Grand Canyon by helicopter, balloon tours, horseback riding through Red Rock Canyon, desert ATV rides, ghost towns and abandoned mines.   There are a multitude of options.  Check out Viator.com for tour ideas.

Brilliant pink cactus bloom
Desert Cactus

So, if you have been avoiding Las Vegas because “it’s not your thing”, maybe you should take another look.  The best time of the year, as most places, is spring. The days are balmy and the nights cool, rain has the desert in full bloom, there is still snow in Lee Canyon. Spring just seems a little more pleasant to get outside and make memories. Always grateful.👫