Discover Port Townsend

The beautiful seaport city of Port Townsend should be on everyone’s travel bucket list.

Are you looking for a destination that ticks all the boxes for a great vacation or weekend getaway? We get to experience a lot of small towns but this town is certainly one of our favorites. And others agree. Port Townsend is named one of the most beautiful small towns to visit by several publications, including Travel & Leisure and National Geographic. Put Discover Port Townsend at the top of your list. Clubbing may be best explored in Seattle but if you are ready for history and nostalgia, romance and dining, boating or outdoor adventures, then you should look at Discover Port Townsend.

Water Street viewed from Bell Tower Park

Port Townsend is a boom-town that never boomed. And that is why the stunning Victorian-era architecture has been preserved for you to enjoy. A visit here is to experience what an 1800’s seaport may have been like. Temperatures hover in the 70s during summer months so exploring by foot or bike is easy and pleasant. And if you don’t have your own bikes, they can be rented at Recyclery or PT Cyclery

Getting here.

By car, you head to the Olympic Peninsula, traveling North on scenic Highway 101. The more scenic route is from Olympia to highway 101 and through Hoodsport. Don’t stop — even though you will be tempted — or you will not get to Port Townsend. This drive is one of the most beautiful stretches of this famed highway. I highly recommend this route if you have the time. Mists roiling down from the Olympic Forest mountains. Vast views of Hood Canal (an underwhelming name for such a picturesque place), and narrow, historic bridges spanning bay sloughs. This road, on a warm summer day, is what convertibles are made for. You can also come through Tacoma and connect to Highway 101. Though faster, the drive is not quite as scenic.

No car? No worries. The Washington State Ferry System can get you here from several points on the mainland or from Seattle. You can bring bicycles and motorcycles, cars and RVs, on the ferry but make sure you have reservations well in advance of your trip. The Ferry fills up fast and traveling standby can quickly become disappointing. The ferry to Port Townsend is from Coupeville on Whidbey Island. The scenic ride is about one hour, so you have time to climb up top of the boat to enjoy the view.

Boating is hugely popular (understatement) at Port Townsend and marina facilities are available if you arrive by private boat at Point Hudson Marina and RV Park.


Where to Stay

Camping

Bring your own camp gear or RV and you have at least four different options.

  • There is a campground at Fort Worden Historic State Park. Ft. Worden has beachfront and wooded campsites and can be booked online.
  • Point Hudson Marina and RV Park is another choice for your RV. This park is in the heart of town and has sites directly on the water.
  • Jefferson County Fair Campground is a simple, inexpensive town option. It is an open field near Glass Beach, has some hookups and is within bike riding distance of downtown. These sites are first come first serve with a few full hookups.
  • The fourth option for camping is Fort Townsend Historical State Park. It is a few miles outside of town. This is an excellent option for easy access to wooded hike trails. There are only a few RV sites but loads of tent camping sites. These can be booked online.
Hotels

Hotels for every price range and type are in Port Townsend. Modern, historic, rustic, boutique, romantic are all available. Listed below are a few that we have seen but not stayed in. Be aware that some of the old buildings have stairs and no lift.

What to do

You may have a fabulous view from your hotel room but there is so much to pick from in Port Townsend that you probably want to explore some too.

What will catch your attention first is Water Street. As the port of entry for Puget Sound in the late 1800s, it is easy to imagine the scene. Sailors and businessmen, brothels and taverns, all teeming with activity. History claims Port Townsend was an easy place to be shanghaied. Today, a walk down Water Street is an enjoyable stroll filled with fabulous Victorian architecture. Buildings erected in anticipation of a railroad that never came, unique shops and eateries, pubs and inns.

Parks

Port Townsend is teeming with parks and open spaces. There is a park to enjoy the waterfront, a park to enjoy gardens, and walking trails crisscrossing the entire city. Surrounding the town are areas for hiking, biking, and birding. Here a few of our favorites.

Mt. Rainier viewed from Whidbey Island hike
Fort Worden Historical State Park

Difficult as it may be to leave Water Street, you would be remiss to skip Ft. Worden. Walking tour pamphlets are available at the Friends of Fort Worden Visitor Center. You will learn about the oldest building, Alexander’s Castle, built in 1883 and available for overnight stays. This building was used to film scenes in the movie An Officer and a Gentleman. You can dine in the Guard House Pub, or picnic on the parade grounds. Children (and grown husbands) will especially adore climbing on the concrete gun batteries that remain where placed over 100 years ago to protect Puget Sound.

Ft. Worden also is home to the photogenic Point Wilson lighthouse (no tours but great photos) as well as the Marine Science Center. Canoes are available to rent here.

Point Wilson Lighthouse

Chetzemoka Park

Chetzemoka Park is a labor of love and it shows. Established in 1904, Chetzemoka Park is the oldest city park in Port Townsend. Hedges of antique roses greet you as you enter to lush plantings of Rhodedendrons, mature trees, brick pathways and a stunning view of Admiralty Bay and the mist covered Cascade Mountain Range.

Potting Shed – Chetzemoka Park

Relax and enjoy the view in the wooden swings or bring a picnic and use a provided grill and table. There is plenty of room for children to run in this park and is easily accessed by foot or bike if you are staying in town.

A small dog park is available here.

Bell Tower Park

Make sure to visit the tiny Bell Tower Park, a seventy-five foot fire tower built in 1890. A brass bell in the top, still there, would signal where a fire was located. The view here is pretty impressive too.

Jefferson County Fairgrounds
Joey

If you are traveling with a pup and need room for them to run then this is where you want to head. Plenty of open space is available here to play fetch or let your pet stretch their legs.

Dining

Port Townsend is a tourist town and because of this boasts a wide assortment of restaurants to choose from. You won’t find much fast food so keep that in mind for a busy day. Here are a few that we have eaten in and would return to.

In addition to restaurants, there are brewery tours and cider tours. Spend a laid back day sampling their wares. Deli fast food is available at Safeway and the Organic Co-op.

So much more

There is so much more in Port Townsend than I can list. Better writers than me have sung the praises of this little city. Ken and I are so thankful that we stumbled into this lovely little place in our first year of RV life and have returned each year since. If I haven’t convinced you to Discover Port Townsend then let me give it one more try.

Balmy summer weather; lunch on a high deck overlooking Puget Sound; deer nibbling in lush grassy yards; a quiet hike along the shore; a wooden boat festival; market-day with delicious homemade treats; sailboat tours; visiting a fragrant lavender field; fresh seafood; picturesque marina; driftwood covered beaches; wild blackberries to pick; unique and interesting shops; over 300 Victorian homes; a quiet shore-side coffee; a secluded picnic; Glass Beach; a steampunk festival; a romantic dinner.

Want to learn more about traveling the Olympic Peninsula? Read our previous blog post, RV the Olympic Peninsula.

Till next week…….

Always Grateful👫

Tips and links

Before booking a hotel stay, be aware the older buildings may only have stairs to the upper floors, so no elevators. Make sure someone will be able to help you with your luggage. Pets may ride on the ferry but must stay in your vehicle for the entire ride. If you have time to kill before the Coupeville ferry on Whidbey Island, there is a small restaurant within walking distance. And if you want a little casino action, there are two available, the Suquamish Casino in Poulsbo about an hour away, and 7 Cedars Casino in Sequim about thirty minutes away.

RV the Olympic Peninsula

The peninsula’s beauty is protected and available for you to explore. Some folks may not appreciate the remoteness but others will revel in what this area has to offer.

Getting to the Olympic Peninsula

This is the second summer we have explored the Oregon and Washington coastlines.  This year we were able to dig a little deeper and RV the Olympic Peninsula, an often overlooked gem.

Bordered by Puget Sound on the east, the Salish Sea on the north, and the Pacific Ocean on the west, the Olympic Peninsula is almost entirely covered by Olympic National Park and the National Forest.  The peninsula’s beauty is protected and available for you to explore.  Some folks may not appreciate the remoteness but others will revel in what this area has to offer.

The primary RV route to the Olympic Peninsula is by scenic highway 101, from either Olympia to the east or the Pacific coast to the west.  However, you can also enter by highway 16 from Tacoma , or ferry your RV in from northern mainland Washington.

The map pictured contains a link to all the areas that are dog friendly. For more information, click the description at the bottom.

Quaint small towns line the shores of Puget sound. Lavender fields scent the northeast breezes. And Ken’s favorite, oyster farms cultivate their bounty in the clean waters of Willapa Bay.  The drive into the peninsula is scenic and beautiful so allow yourself plenty of oooh and ahhh time.

Camping on the Olympic Peninsula Port Townsend

❤️️Honor system veggie stand near Jefferson County Fair campground in Port Townsend

We began our month in the Olympic Peninsula with a move up coastal highway 101 from Long Beach, Washington to the town of Port Townsend, where we met up with longtime friends from Texas, Kaye and Tim.

Located on the northeastern tip of the peninsula, Port Townsend boasts a historic waterfront with fabulous turn of the century architecture. The town is a ferry stop for the Washington ferry system bringing tourists to Port Townsend’s historic downtown and Fort Worden Historical State Park.

What to do in Port Townsend, Washington

Point Wilson lighthouse at Fort Worden

 You can enjoy great restaurants. Stroll or bike through beautiful scenery where deer wander freely through town. Or tour the outer islands like Bainbridge or the San Juan Islands. Take a whale watching tour. You can even take your bike and catch a ferry to Victoria, B.C. for a day trip. 

Water-views from Port Townsend & Fort Worden

There are ample RV sites in one of four locations around the town.  We prefer the quiet of Jefferson County Fair Campground, but waterfront camping and fabulous views are also available at Fort Worden State Park, Point Hudson Marina and RV Park, and Fort Townsend Historical State Park.

Deer grazing at Fort Worden post cemetary

Lift a pint on the deck of Siren’s Pub & Restaurant and enjoy the scenic waterfront. Or visit one of our favorite Thai food experiences in all our traveling at Khu Larb Thai or their Little Rose Takeout.  Good dining choices are available throughout the town.  Port Townsend also boasts an extremely satisfying Jefferson County Farmers Market on Saturdays.  They offer all manner of fresh farm products, entertainment and food.  One other tidbit about this area, Port Townsend has one of the best organic food co-ops that we have found, The Food Co-op.

Port Townsend waterfront shops

Camping on the Olympic Peninsula Sequim

The next stop on our peninsula tour was Sequim (pronounced Sqwim).  We stayed at the Seven Cedars Casino where you are welcome for three days without charge and there are even some 15-amp electrical hookups available.

We stayed the three-day limit and enjoyed their hospitality, gaming and restaurants. It was long enough too to enjoy one of the local farms during lavender festival, Purple Haze Lavender Farm

What to do in Sequim, Washington

If you are considering a trip to the Olympic Peninsula, I would encourage you to time your visit with the Lavender Festival in July.  Blooming fields, live entertainment, lavender flavored everything from margaritas to ice cream and beautiful hand-crafted items.  And each farm offers something different.

Purple Haze Lavender Farm

Another memorable dining experience was the Alder Wood Bistro.  They have an eclectic menu, including pizza.   Of the six in our party, all six were happy with their dinner choices!  A few days later, Ken and I returned for my birthday celebration with another helping of their crispy duck and Shaker Lemon Pie.

Shaker lemon pie – Alder Wood Bistro

Sequim is a good location to position yourself for exploring if you do not want to continue into more remote locations.  There are RV parks available, beautiful scenery and plenty of restaurants.  Sequim is large enough to supply most of your needs.

Camping on the Olympic Peninsula Into the woods we go

As you continue west, there are several options for stays.  However, there is only one town with many supply choices and that is Port Angeles.  We kept moving west but noted there were fewer opportunities for gas or groceries beyond Sequim. 

If you require cellphone/wifi service, proceed with caution as it gets much more difficult to find hot zones.  Our attempt at the Salt Creek Recreation Area was a bust, and since everyone in our tribe required service, we had to say a sad bye, bye to this beautiful and peaceful campground.

We use Campendium to check on cell-service before we travel to a campground, and recommend it. But you can’t absolutely rely on the reviews to be accurate.

Camping on the Olympic Peninsula Sekiu

Our next stop was Sekiu and I’m almost tempted to keep this one to ourselves.  But since our readership is not in the thousands, we’ll share.

Eagle waiting for salmon scraps on Clallam Bay

You can’t go much further west than Sekiu, Washington on the Juan de Fuca Highway, almost to the peninsula’s northwestern most point.  Most of the RVers here have come for one thing.  Salmon.   The salmon swim up the strait to the smaller streams for spawning and the fisherman are there to catch them and fill the freezers they brought along.

Campsites & boat docks on Clallam Bay

Sekiu rests on the western edge of Clallam Bay.  It is a fish camp.  But it is one of our favorite RV stops in this region.  Peaceful and quiet with abundant wildlife, we could even see Vancouver Island across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.   It punches our happy ticket. 

What to do in Sekiu, Washington

Commercial fishing boat in Sekiu

There are several campgrounds available around the bay and most all the camp spaces back up to or overlook the water. We camped at Van Riper’s Resort with full hookups, waterfront sites and a small store. Salmon fishing guides can be hired here too. Verizon service was very good, but ATT was non-existent.

Janet & Kaye enjoying campsite lunch at Van Riper’s Resort

Our time in Sekiu was a wonderful respite and a good location to launch exploration of Olympic National Park.  But the remoteness and atmosphere at a fish camp may not be for everyone.  If it is for you and you decide to go, be aware that there are only a couple of restaurants nearby (one that was not so great) so you will need to bring food and supplies with you.  It is a good distance back into a town.  Wild blackberries abound throughout this region and there are plenty of places to go picking.  We enjoyed blackberry cobbler nightly, courtesy of Kaye.

What to see and do on the Olympic Peninsula

Cape Flattery

A visit to Cape Flattery will reward you with some of the most staggeringly beautiful scenery the continental United States has to offer. It is our northwest most point and is located on Makah tribal lands. Luckily they generously share this beauty with everyone. You arrive to a paved parking area and then hike to the point. It is a 1 1/2 mile round trip hike. Don’t pass this by if you visit the Olympic peninsula.

Restaurant stop on Makah tribal land
tribal cemetery totem

Olympic National Park

Wild lily in Olympic National Park

I’m embarrassed to say that we were enjoying our camping at Sekiu so much that we didn’t get into Olympic National Park as often as planned.  What we did see made us commit to coming back again.  Snow capped mountains (in July, shocking for us Floridians!), glaciers, marmots, and fields of wildflowers including beautiful wild lilies.   It is a precious and spectacular place. 

View from Hurricane Ridge hike
Janet & Ken at Olympic National Park Visitor Center

There are so many recreational activities that anyone can find something to do here.  There are hot springs, challenging mountain hikes, bike paths, and the Hoh Rainforest.  And if camping in State and National Parks is what you love, several are situated on stunning Pacific coastline

RV the Olympic Peninsula Conclusion

Several challenges exist if you are interested in visiting this area but all of them are easily overcome with a small amount of planning.  That would be our best piece of advice.  It is well worth your time to see Olympic National Park and to RV the Olympic Peninsula. Highway 101 is in good condition throughout.  This is not a place you can easily just “wing it”. A little preparation will go a long way toward a fun and memorable experience when you RV the Olympic Peninsula.

Thanks to our friends and travel companions for the summer, Kaye & Tim. It was great sharing it all with you. Always grateful.👫

Nomadic Life Is Our New Normal

Has it really been 6 months?

April was our last blog post as The Burrow shivered her way north to Bend, Oregon.  The posts have been pushed to the back burner as we grasp every spare moment to explore our new surroundings.

Nomadic life is our new normal. We relocate our RV “home” every three weeks or so and it seems to be the travel schedule that works best.   Two weeks is too little but after three weeks, it’s time to go. 

Home

Armadillo & The Burrow at rest

With two years on the road under our wheels, our RV truly feels like home.  The kinks are mostly worked out and the past year has allowed us to relax and enjoy the ride.  “La Dolce Vita” is a phrase we embrace.

We met up with longtime friends in Port Townsend, WA, who have embarked on a nomadic lifestyle too.  Our tribe is small but mighty and it has been truly fun to share these experiences with friends.  I will admit though, traveling with three engineers can be challenging at times and the squirrels are still running rampant.

Where have we been since the last blog? 

“I’ve been everywhere, man
I’ve been everywhere, man
‘Cross the deserts bare, man
I’ve breathed the mountain air, man
Of travel, I’ve had my share, man
I’ve been everywhere. “

Hank Snow

Bend, OR; San Francisco, CA; Florence, OR; Salem, OR; Newport, OR; Albany, OR; Pacific City, OR; Tillamook, OR; Astoria, OR; Long Beach, WA; Port Townsend, WA; Poulsbo, WA; Sequim, WA; Sekiu, WA; Olympic National Park, Seattle, WA; Puyallup, WA; Chehalis, WA; Mt. Rainier National Park, Portland, OR; Mt. St. Helens, WA; Yachats, OR; Eugene, OR; Crater Lake National Park, Fresno, CA; Coronado, CA; San Diego, CA; Tijuana, MX; Joshua Tree National Park and finally, Las Vegas,  NV.

Whew!

Burrow Updates

The Burrow is sporting a brand-new refrigerator and all the orchids have set spikes (they love their skylight).  The animals are doing well although Bitsy is now wearing diapers. She decided that urinating on the floor was a good way to indicate unhappiness.  As with most of the animal issues since moving aboard, diapering a cat was surprisingly easier than expected.

Upcoming Content Focus

I think I’ll tease these destinations out a few at a time.  Maybe try to give my readers an idea what is there to see or what may be remarkable in the area.  As my friend said, “how many times can you say beautiful and awesome?”.  Everyone has different ideas about the perfect travel destination so maybe we can offer you some planning ideas.

Going forward, Ken and I would like to review the Thousand Trails campgrounds that we stay in. Membership in Thousand Trails can help stretch your camping budget and we are happy to be affiliated.

New ideas are perking and plans are being made for 2020.  This need for new challenge, sights and experiences isn’t leaving us.  The past two years have fed our wanderlust and the nomadic life is our new normal.

We are back in Las Vegas.  When our friends say “goodbye” and head back to Austin for their holidays and we travel to Florida for ours, the tribe will be dismantled.   We’re snowbirds now, enjoying the best weather and destinations. But stay tuned. There is so much more to experience as we share with you how nomadic life is our new normal.

Always grateful.👫